Build a sauna with Tylö
Some good advice when building a sauna.
B. Horizontal joists, ceiling joists, vents (timber approx: 45 x 22 mm).
C. 45 mm mineral wool for thermal insulation, approx. 20 mm air cavity to outer wall.
D. 12 mm wood panels for walls and ceiling. There must always be a minimum of 45 mm insulation behind the wood panelling. Do not use any other material, such as chipboard or plasterboard.
E. Floor tiles or fully-welded, non-slip plastic matting that must be turned up approximately 50 mm behind the wood panelling.
F. A mesh screen can be mounted on the outside of the air inlet, which must be fully open at all times.
G. The air outlet is fitted with a sliding cover to control the air flow.
5 quick tips on how to build a sauna
1. RIGHT SIZE ROOM
A large sauna has more space to heat up, which requires a larger heater. This means higher installation costs, larger fuses and larger cable sizes, plus it is more expensive to run the sauna.
2. RIGHT HEATER FOR THE RIGHT SAUNA
Rule of thumb: 1 kW = 1.3 m3 sauna volume.
3. CORRECT HEIGHT
Ceiling height between 1,900 – 2,200 mm is fully adequate. The heat rises and collects under the ceiling.
4. SAUNA HEATERS AND SAUNA DOORS
Sauna heaters and sauna doors should be on the same wall. If that's not possible, the heater should be installed as close to the door as possible. The door's air circulation must work together with the hot air from the heater. Heaters must be installed by a trained and qualified electrician.
5. SAUNA FLOOR
Should be tiles or a wet-room covering that is easy to dry and keep clean.